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Mt Everest is the highest mountain

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10It was four weeks to an unforeseen natural disaster.

I was sat on the rooftops of Bhaktapur​ in the Kathmandu Valley late last March, blithely watching a day pass from the balcony of an open-air cafe.

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A Hindu holy man, or sadhu, stands outside his ashram at Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu, Nepal.
NAVESH CHITRAKAR / REUTERS

A Hindu holy man, or sadhu, stands outside his ashram at Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu, Nepal.

In Taumadhi Square below, a Buddhist monk in robes snapped selfies on his smartphone amid a stream of backpacks. Everything was as it should be in this royal medieval city.

READ MORE:
* Trekking in Nepal will take your breath away
* Dramatic footage of the Nepal Earthquake emerges
* Amid the mountains of Nepal, there’s plenty to challenge a traveller

View over Namche Bazaar, the largest town in the Khumbu region.
ANDREW BAIN

View over Namche Bazaar, the largest town in the Khumbu region.

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A view of Mount Everest, trekking in Nepal

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I came home wondering how you could not go. If ever there were a time to visit Nepal, it’s now.

My stomach is a knot of nervous anticipation as I check my packing list, preparing to join a group of international journalists and tour operators on a 10-day survey of the South Asian nation. How bad would the tourism infrastructure be?

In the days and months following the earthquakes, the media had portrayed a country in ruin. But was Nepal unsafe now, nine months after the ground had stopped shaking?

Getting there is no easy task. In Dallas, I have to sprint to make my connection, skidding into my seat a sweaty mess. Fifteen hours later, I touch down in Qatar, with eight hours to kill in an airport hotel. By the time I land in Kathmandu, after a full 35 hours in transit, I’m not sure what

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The air whistled past my helmet as I removed a cube of raw buffalo meat from the bag strapped to my paraglider harness and placed it in my gloved hand. While a soup of haze obstructed the views of the Himalayas one afternoon last spring, I was rewarded with tilting glimpses of the Nepalese city of Pokhara and of Phewa Lake below. The paraglider pilot seated behind me blew his whistle twice, and moments later, a brown Egyptian vulture swooped in an effortless arc, landing on my outstretched arm.

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